How to remove stripped screws with screw extractors

Stuck Screw? Here’s Exactly How to Remove Stripped Screws with Screw Extractors (No Stress Required)

Have you ever stared at a screw that just. won’t. budge?

You give it a twist, and it slips. You try again—more pressure this time—and it still won’t move. In fact, the more you try, the worse it gets, right? Suddenly, the screw head is a mangled mess of metal, and your project is stalled.

Welcome to the world of stripped screws—something every DIYer, mechanic, and home repair enthusiast runs into at some point. And let’s be real: it’s maddening. It makes you feel stuck, powerless, and even a little defeated. Whether you were fixing a cabinet hinge, pulling apart an old bike, or working on your car engine—that one stubborn screw can ruin your entire day.

But here’s the good news: it doesn’t have to.

Screw extractors exist for one reason only—to rescue you from this exact situation. And in this guide, I’m going to show you how to use them like a pro. No fluff. No guesswork. Just real, practical steps to get that stripped screw out—without tearing your hair out or destroying your project in the process.

We’ll go over:

Why screws get stripped in the first place (so you don’t make the same mistake twice)
What types of screw extractors exist—and which one’s right for your job
A complete, beginner-friendly, step-by-step walk-through of how to use them
Plus, troubleshooting tips in case things don’t go smoothly

Sounds good? Cool. Grab a cup of coffee (or your favorite tool), and let’s get into it.

Because trust me—you’re totally capable of removing that stuck screw. And when it finally comes loose? That little moment of victory? It’s going to feel so satisfying.

Let’s make that happen.

Why Screws Get Stripped — What Happens

Before we tear into extraction, let’s understand what we’re fighting. Knowing the enemy helps you win.

Definition of a Stripped Screw

A screw is “stripped” when its head’s drive recess (Phillips, slot, Torx, etc.) has been worn, rounded, or damaged so that a screwdriver or driver bit can’t grip it properly. The bit slips or cam‑outs.

Common Causes

Using the wrong driver size or type
Bits that are worn down or blunt
Applying too much torque or force
Rust, corrosion, or chemical damage weakening surfaces
Cross threading or misalignment when driving the screw
Overuse or repeated removal & insertion

Why Stripped Screws Are a Pain

You lose grip and can’t turn them
Surrounding material may get damaged while trying
Extracting them often risks breaking the extractor in, or damaging the part you’re working on
They stall your work, waste time, and stress you out

Understanding that the screw might be rigidly seized, corroded, or embedded in delicate material helps you pick your approach. Let’s talk about screw extractors — your rescue tool.

What Are Screw Extractors & How They Work

So, what’s a screw extractor? Think of it as a “reverse screw” that bites inward into the screw so you can turn it out. But there’s more nuance than that.

Definition & Principle

A screw extractor is a hardened tool with left‑hand (reverse) threads or flutes that, when turned counterclockwise, grip into a pre‑drilled hole in a stripped screw and back it out. The deeper you turn, the more it bites in. (Yes, it’s kind of like a reverse screw inside a screw.)

Because most screws are right‑handed, turning counterclockwise is the “unscrew” direction. The extractor uses that to its advantage.

The tricky part: the extractor must bite into the screw material before the screw or surrounding material gives way. Also: extractors are made of very hard, often quite brittle steel — if you torque too hard they may snap inside the hole.

Types of Screw Extractors

Let’s break down the types so you know which to use when.

Spiral (Tapered) Extractors

These have a conical taper and spiral grooves / threads along them.
As you turn them counterclockwise, they dig in more deeply.
Good for many general applications.
But if too much torque is applied, they can expand the screw or slip out.

Straight‑Flute Extractors

These have straight cutting flutes, not spiral.
They bit more aggressively and tend not to expand the screw as much.
Often preferred for harder metals or when expansion is dangerous.
They require more precise pilot holes.

Double‑Ended / Combo Bits

One end is a drill bit, the other an extractor.
You drill with one end, then flip and extract with the other.
Convenient because the matching bit is built into the tool.

Socket / Bolt Style Extractors

These are used more for bolts or screws with somewhat exposed heads.
Internally, they have gripping grooves and are turned with a wrench / ratchet.
Useful when there is enough head for external grip.

Pros & Cons of Each

Type	Pros	Cons
Spiral / Tapered	Common, easier to find, works in many cases	Risk of expansion, slipping, weaker grip in hard metal
Straight‑flute	Less expansion, better in hard metals	More demanding accuracy, less forgiving
Combo bits	Convenient, everything in one tool	May compromise on quality of either end
Socket / bolt style	Great when head is accessible	Not useful if screw is flush or embedded

Material Considerations

Extractors are extremely hard but brittle — too much torque = breakage.
The material of the screw (soft steel, brass, stainless, hardened) affects how easily the extractor can bite in.
Brittle coatings, fragile parts around the screw, or coating layers complicate things.

Now that you know what tools exist, let’s prepare correctly so extraction goes more smoothly.

Preparing for Extraction

This preparation phase often makes or breaks your success. Rushing is where many folks fail.

Gather Tools & Safety Gear

You’ll want:

A properly graded screw extractor set (various sizes)
Drill & suitable bits (left‑hand bits if possible)
Center punch
Hammer
Penetrating oil (WD‑40, PB Blaster, etc.)
Heat gun or soldering iron (if heat needed)
Clamps or vise to hold the workpiece
Safety glasses, gloves
Clean rags to catch shavings

Diagnose the Screw Condition

Before you jump in, assess:

What material is the screw (steel, stainless, brass, etc.)?
How deeply embedded is it?
Is it corroded, rusted, or chemically seized?
Is the surrounding material delicate (wood, aluminum housing, painted surface)?

This helps you decide whether to apply heat, lubrication, or go for the less invasive methods first.

Clean, Lubricate, and Free the Screw

Sometimes the screw isn’t fully stuck — you just need to reduce its grip.

Apply penetrating oil around the screw and let it soak 10–15 minutes (or more).
Tap gently with a hammer to help oil penetrate and loosen rust bonds.
If safe, apply moderate heat to the area (with a heat gun or soldering iron) to expand the metal slightly. But be cautious — heat can damage surrounding parts.

These steps reduce the force needed later and reduce risk of breaking the extractor.

Mark Center, Clamp, & Stabilize

Use a center punch to mark the precise center of the screw head. This helps prevent the drill bit from wandering.
Clamp the part securely so it doesn’t shift while drilling.
Make sure your drill is perpendicular (or as straight as possible) to the screw surface. Accuracy matters.

Step‑by‑Step Guide: Using a Screw Extractor

Here comes the core — how you actually use a screw extractor, from start to finish.

Choosing the Right Extractor Size

The extractor should match the size of the screw hole — neither too loose (won’t bite) nor too tight (won’t fit).
Many extractor sets provide a chart: pick the one whose outer diameter is slightly less than the stripped screw’s original shank diameter.
If uncertain, start with a smaller extractor rather than too large.

Drilling a Pilot Hole

Drill Bit Selection

Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the core (minor) diameter of the screw.
If using left-hand bits, you may be able to remove the screw while drilling.
For hard materials, use high-speed steel (HSS) or cobalt bits.

Drill Speed & Technique

Use low speed, moderate pressure. High speeds generate heat and may damage or wander.
Drill straight, coaxial to the screw.
Stop as soon as you’re deep enough (often 1/8″ to 1/4″, depending on screw size). Don’t overdrill.
Clean out shavings periodically so you don’t jam.

Inserting & Seating the Extractor

Insert the extractor gently into the pilot hole.
If needed, tap lightly with a hammer so it seats and gets initial grip.
Ensure it goes straight, not at an angle.

Applying Torque & Removal

Use a tap wrench, adjustable wrench, or T-handle. Never use a power drill for the extraction turn.
Turn slowly and steadily counterclockwise (because extractors use reverse threads).
As the extractor bites, you should feel increasing resistance, then the screw may begin to move.
Continue gently, not forcing.

If Slipping or Not Biting

If the extractor slips, back it out, clean shavings, reinsert and tap again.
Maybe the pilot hole is too large — try a smaller extractor or re-drill slightly narrower.
Use penetrating oil or at least a blow and tap around it to help loosen.
Avoid excessive force — breakage is the worst scenario.

Dealing with Difficult or Stubborn Screws

Sometimes things go sideways. Here’s how to handle those nightmare cases.

When the Extractor Breaks Inside

Stop immediately — don’t twist further.
If the broken piece is exposed, try to grab it with fine pliers.
Use a small diamond burr or rotary tool to carefully grind or drill it out.
If possible, heat around the screw to help loosen.
In worst cases, you may need to drill through the remaining screw (sacrificing it) to remove the assembly.

Drilling Out the Screw Completely

Use a drill bit slightly larger than the screw shank, and slowly drill straight through.
Once the head is removed, often the rest of the shaft can be pulled out or less embedded and removable with pliers.
This is destructive to the screw but often safe to the surrounding material if done carefully.

Radial Cuts / Slot Cutting Technique

Use a rotary tool (Dremel) with a cutting disk to cut a new slot into the screw head.
Insert a strong flathead screwdriver into that slot and turn.
Be very careful to avoid cutting into the surrounding material.
This is more invasive but sometimes the only option.

Welding or Nut‑Welding Method

If you have welding tools and the material allows, weld a nut onto the stripped screw head (the nut should be smaller or flush).
Once the weld is solid, you now have a fresh head to grip and use a wrench to turn.
This is more specialized and depends on whether you’re comfortable with welding and whether the surrounding part can tolerate heat.

Combining Extraction with External Grip

Sometimes using locking pliers or vise grips in combination with the extractor can help. Grip whatever remains of the screw while turning the extractor.
This hybrid can reduce torque solely borne by the extractor, and shares load.
This is useful particularly when part of the head is exposed.

Tips & Precautions to Avoid Disasters

Here are the finer points and warnings — I don’t want you breaking stuff!

Don’t Rush — Slow and Steady Wins

Extraction is about control, not brute force. Rushing tends to break extractors or damage parts.

Avoid Oversizing the Pilot Hole

If your pilot hole is too big, the extractor may not bite properly, or you may weaken surrounding material. Always err on the side of being conservative.

Use Hand Tools for Rotation — Not Power Tools

Never put the extractor in a power drill for turning it out. You have no feedback control, and over-rotation or sudden torque can snap it. Use hand tools (tap wrench, wrench) so you feel resistance.

Be Wary of Brittle Extractors

Many extractors are made of hard steel that’s brittle. If the screw is stronger, the extractor is more likely to break. That’s why care, correct sizing, and patience matter.

Protect Surrounding Material

Cover sensitive surfaces around the screw to catch metal shavings.
Use masking or protective shields.
Avoid cutting or grinding into the host material.
Clamp and stabilize so the part doesn’t move or fracture under torque.

Maintaining & Choosing a Good Screw Extractor Kit

If you’re going to make extraction a part of your toolbox, you’ll want a high-quality kit and good practices.

What to Look For in a Kit

A range of sizes (small to large)
Both spiral and straight-flute extractors (if possible)
Hardened, well‑made steel
A combo type with built-in drill & extractor ends
Clear labeling of each size
Good packaging/case to keep them sorted

Maintenance, Cleaning & Storage

After use, wipe off shavings and oil.
Use a brush or compressed air to clear flutes.
Keep them dry or lightly oiled to avoid rust.
Store in a labeled, organized case (so you don’t mix sizes).
Inspect for wear — if an extractor becomes dull, replace it.

When to Replace an Extractor

If it slips instead of biting
If chipped, bent, or deformed
If the tip is no longer sharp in the groove
If you nearly broke it once — better to be cautious

The Final Turn: Mastering Screw Extraction, One Stuck Fastener at a Time

Let’s be honest: Stripped screws have a way of showing up at the worst possible moment, don’t they?

You’re mid-project, things are going great, and then—boom—your screwdriver just spins in place like it’s mocking you. That sinking feeling? Yeah, we’ve all been there. It’s frustrating, it’s time-consuming, and it can make even the most seasoned DIYers question their skills.

But here’s what you now know (and this is huge): you’ve got the tools, the knowledge, and the confidence to deal with it.

From understanding why screws get stripped in the first place, to choosing the right type of extractor, prepping your workspace, drilling that pilot hole just right, and applying slow, steady torque—you’ve learned exactly how to remove stripped screws with screw extractors the right way.

And look, I won’t sugarcoat it. Sometimes it won’t go perfectly. Sometimes the extractor slips. Sometimes the screw just won’t move. But now, instead of panic, you’ve got options. You’ve got backup plans, workarounds, and—most importantly—a cool head and clear steps to follow.

Because that’s what makes someone great with tools—not perfection, but the ability to adapt and recover when things get messy.

Here’s the big takeaway:

Removing stripped screws isn’t just about fixing a stuck fastener—it’s about learning patience, precision, and problem-solving.

And that’s something that’ll serve you well in every project you tackle next.

So the next time a screw refuses to budge, don’t stress. Breathe, grab your extractor, and do your thing. Because now? You’re not just someone with a stripped screw—you’re the person who knows exactly how to handle it.

Let that stuck screw know who’s boss.

Final Thoughts: From Frustration to Fix — You’ve Got This

Let’s face it: few things are as unexpectedly irritating as a stripped screw. It’s such a small thing — but wow, it can throw a big wrench into your plans. That moment when your screwdriver just spins uselessly in place? Yeah… we’ve all had that “Are you kidding me?” moment.

But here’s what matters more: you didn’t give up. You searched for answers. You learned what screw extractors are, how they work, how to prepare properly, and how to troubleshoot when things don’t go as planned. That’s not just fixing a screw — that’s real, hands-on problem-solving. That’s the mark of someone who gets things done.

And maybe, just maybe, this experience taught you a little more than just how to pull out a stuck fastener. Maybe it reminded you that even when something seems jammed, stuck, or beyond fixing — there’s almost always a solution. All it takes is the right tools, a bit of patience, and a willingness to try.

So next time a screw strips out or refuses to budge, don’t stress. Just smile, grab your extractor, and remember: you’ve already got what it takes to get the job done.

You’re not just fixing hardware — you’re building confidence, one screw at a time.

Please read more about the best screw extractors.

FAQs

Can I use a power drill to turn the extractor out?

No — you should avoid using a power drill for turning the extractor. Use hand tools like a tap wrench or adjustable wrench. Power tools don’t give you fine control, and sudden torque spikes can snap the extractor inside the screw.

What if I break the screw extractor inside the screw?

Stop immediately. If part of the extractor is exposed, try to pull it out with fine pliers. Otherwise, carefully drill or grind it out with a diamond burr or small bit. You may have to go destructive (drilling through) if all else fails.

Will a screw extractor work on rusted or corroded screws?

Yes — but success improves when you first treat the screw with penetrating oil and light heat, to break corrosion bonds. You want the screw loosened just enough so the extractor doesn’t have to fight extra grip.

How deep should the pilot hole be?

Usually 1/8″ to 1/4″ is enough for many screw sizes, depending on the extractor and screw. The goal is to give the extractor enough bite, without weakening the remaining screw shaft or damaging surrounding parts.

Is a spiral extractor or straight‑flute extractor better?

It depends on the application. Spiral extractors are common and versatile, but they may expand the screw or slip under torque. Straight‑flute extractors are better when expansion or slippage is risky (hard metals or tight spaces). Having both types in your kit offers flexibility.

Final Thoughts After the FAQs

Still with me? Awesome — that tells me you’re serious about getting that stubborn screw out once and for all.

Hopefully, the FAQs cleared up those lingering “what ifs” and gave you that extra bit of clarity you needed. Because let’s be real — stripped screws aren’t just annoying. They mess with your workflow, your tools, and sometimes even your confidence. But now you’ve got the full picture.

You know the why, the how, the what to do when things go sideways, and even how to bounce back if the extractor snaps (because yep, that happens too).

So the next time a fastener fights back, you won’t panic.
You’ll prep, drill, extract — and move on like a total pro.

Whether you’re fixing a creaky chair or working on an engine block, you’re not stuck anymore. You’re equipped.

And hey — don’t forget to give yourself a little credit. You’ve turned a frustrating obstacle into an opportunity to learn, grow, and handle things with confidence.